Reading about the global economy marching into a depression has been depressing. At a time like this, I head out to eat. I know, I know – I shouldn’t be spending my money dining out. But it’s possible to find restaurants that offer tasty meals without emptying my wallet.
One such culinary treasure is Sultan Palace. Tucked behind Which Wich? on East University Boulevard, this restaurant serves Afghan cuisine under the care of cook and owner Diba Kushkaki, a native of Kabul, Afghanistan.
Sultan Palace offers generous portions for reasonable prices in these lean times, and does so without skimping on flavor. I found lunch specials for less than $10. These included qorme gosht, fork-tender lamb ($7.95), mixed vegetables ($7.50) and kofta, baked meatballs ($6.95). Each special comes with chalaw, white basmati rice, or palaw, flavored basmati rice, and a garden salad topped with a yogurt-based dressing.
I also found some great values for dinner, ranging from $8.95 to $12.95. I ordered the chalaw entrée ($8.95) which came with two side dishes; I chose the qorme murgh, juicy pieces of chicken sautéed and stewed in a tomato sauce, and banjan buranee, eggplant cooked until it was creamy smooth and topped with a sour cream sauce.
If you’re feeling extravagant, there are the special combination platters ($17.95 – $29.95). My friend Courtney ordered the vegetarian king combo ($17.95). It came with bolanee (a flatbread stuffed with either leeks or potato), a vegetarian sambossa (a fried turnover similar to Indian samosas stuffed with potatoes and sweet peas), a side dish (she chose the banjan buranee), the garden salad, and chalaw.
The ambiance at Sultan Palace has changed – for the better. Gone are the buffet tables and the tiled wall scrawled with Arabic; instead canopied, knee-high tables flank both sides of the restaurant and provide an intimate air to a meal. Courtney and I could talk to each other without raising our voices, even when the restaurant was busy, which is rare.
And that was the big mystery. I was surprised there weren’t more people enjoying the flavorful meals, affordable prices, and the pleasing décor of Sultan Palace. Hopefully, that will change soon.
Sultan Palace
943 E. University Blvd.
Open daily 11a.m.-10p.m.
520.622.2892